San Francisco Chronicle – “Food & Wine Newsletter” (Jon Bonne)

2013 Massican Sauvignon – Wine of the Week: More attention has been dropped on Dan Petroski for Massican’s Friuli-inspired blends, or for his Cabernet work at Larkmead. But with the 2013 vintage, his Sauvignon Blanc (also a major grape in Italy’s Friuli) comes into its own. This is one of the best Napa versions I’ve encountered, rivaling bottles from Spottswoode and Araujo. It combines a classic pungency – cucumber, marjoram and shishito – with an intense blast of sweet lime and ripe, figgy fruit. It hints at sweetness, yet it never veers into the creamy, often oaky tones that mark such wines. And there’s a slightly mineral Sauvignon intensity also found in great Loire examples. In other words, it combines the best aspects of a grape that usually gets short shrift. Examples like this give hope that Sauvignon Blanc can find not just fans, but ample respect as well.

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