Terroir Review: 2017 Reviews

2017 “Hyde” Chardonnay – Massican winemaker Dan Petroski sources Chardonnay for his bottling from the Hyde Vineyard in cool Carneros. In 2017 he harvested the fruit at 22.4° Brix and barrel-fermented it in 100 percent new French oak. But he doesn’t let the wine go through malolactic fermentation, so the overall effect both shimmery and structured. It’s not quite satiny, more like dupioni silk, with its nubs and texture, its intriguing sheen, its deeper visual interest.

Sunny and even-keeled, luminous and balanced, it’s a wine that feels inspired more by Burgundy than Chablis. It’s always one of my favorite California Chardonnays.

– Meg Houston Maker

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